To be prepared for an edge transition gone wrong, the Belay Competency Drop Test is supposed to be representative of a fall onto a second line from your main line during an edge transition. The Belay Competency Drop Test is a 200kg mass falling 1 meter onto 3 meters of rope with no more than 1 meter of rope slipping through the device and the maximum arresting force felt on the anchor should be no more than 15 KN. This is now an ASTM standard: ASTM F2436 – 14(2019). In this episode hosted by Kelly Byrne with guests John McKently, LeRoy Harbach and Wayne Chapman we discuss the question, ‘Is the belay competency drop test and whistle test (where everyone lets go of the system at once) still a valid test method or rigging paradigm?’ and is there a better way?
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